14 comments on “Hall effect based control inputs…

  1. Hello Gene
    I have been following your builds and projects with great admiration. I want to incorporate the hall sensor into my replica Fw 190 throtle. Could you explain to me “(oriented NS-pen-NS)” and what does it mean? Where can I get the circuit board that holds the hall effect sensor? And lastly I would be willing to pay for you to make 2 “press-fit back plate and 2 control arms. Great work and much success. Thank you.


  2. “NS” means “north-south”. You want to orient the magnets so if the pen wasn’t in the way, they’d snap together.
    The circuit board is a simple “perf” board that you can find at any local Radio Shack. It has little parallel strips of copper drilled on .100 centers and a tiny gap between each row. It may also be called “strip board” – see the illustration for “Tri pad” strip board here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripboard This is what I used.

    Unfortunately due to a serious health issue, I won’t be working on much of anything until after the first of the year. If you can afford to wait that long, I’d be happy to help out. Otherwise you’d be better of trying to make those parts yourself, it’s not that hard. The arms can easily be made from 1/8″ aircraft ply – drill the center hole a bit undersized and file it to shape with a small hobby file.


  3. For this particular project, I’m using a board called Plasma MM2, produced by Beta Innovations. You could use one of Leo Bodnar’s boards as well.

  4. Gene,

    I am working on a similar project – one to replace the awful pot in an X52’s throttle to a hall effect sensor.

    I have everything in order, except for the strength of the magnets and the sensitivity of the required sensor. What strength magnets are you using for this project?

    Also, what is the output voltage of the sensor based on the position of the magnets?


  5. Shawn, as I stated in the article, I’m using a 1/4″ square, .100″ thick neodymium magnet. The Magcraft part number for them is NSN0610/N40.
    I don’t recall what the exact voltage range I was getting, but I’ve been told by another builder that he gets a greater range by using a single magnet instead of two opposed.


  6. Very nice. Threw together a _very_ rough POC. Tested on Arduino. Working beautifully. I’m now adding a second ‘gang’ where another hall effect sensor (in my case UGN3503U’s) is oriented perpendicularly with relation to the sensor below it, that way it should give me the full 360 degrees, by combining both sets of readings.

    Should also allow me to do on the fly re-calibration/compensation in case my manufacturing processes are a little out of whack.

  7. Hi
    First, Congrat’s on a great project. I am building my own rudders, joystick and throttle/buttons and you helped me a lot by seing solutiong you adopted. I am also considering implementing Hall effect as a cheap, accurate and longlasting technology compared to pots. But I’m not shure about some things so if you can help me out :

    – sensor reading…how wide is it ? Thing that bothers me is what kind of reading can I get in a narrow angle around central axis..normaly 0-25 degree on joystick axis. Theoretically I could get 12 bit resolution ( 4096 steps) from leo bodnars board, but it’s dependent on what sensor will read. So what has influence on this…one magnet and perpendicular sensor, two magnet setup like yours, bigger magnet, distance from sensor to magnet ??? Is there any rule of thumb to it ?

    – I know magnetic orientation realy must be N-S. But the magnet orientation in relation to sensor should be irrelevant ? Becouse calibration is done in windows it shouldn’t matter what’s the magnet rotation. The reason I’m asking is becouse there are round magnets to by with central bushing for screw them to the axis which looks like more simple installation to me. There might be trouble becouse sensor has some Sinusoidal output – not linear like a pot, so we want to find magnet position where that sine output is most linear ?? Or is it exact sine wave across all magnetic field – so no matter how you rotate magnet ?

    Thanks in forwards

  8. You sir, just saved my budget! I was looking at a $40 per axle pricing for a factory-made angle sensor but I will definitely go this way!

  9. Glad to hear it Rob!

    At some point I’m going to do a redesign using diametrically magnetized neodymium magnets. It’ll allow the whole assembly to be smaller because you won’t need a magnet on either side of the sensor, just one up against the top of it. If you want to experiment, K&J Magnetics (http://www.kjmagnetics.com) sells them. The part # is D42DIA. They’re 1/4″ diameter x 1/8″ thick.


  10. Hi Everyone I really enjoy reading and following your projects I have one of my own but I haven’t found a circuit to help me I’ve been working on a Daftman 4 pot generator engine. It physically looks a lot like it. The problem I have is the wiring of the Hall effects for timing the firing of each pot so far I haven’t been successful in turning the whole shaft by the magnetic’s . My Magnetic are the neodymium magnets extremely strong and powerful. The rotors in the pots are constructed of 2′ round Aluminum rod the Neodymium Magnetic’s are 1″ Long x 1″ Wide by 1/2″ Thick. I used my lathe to plane the size of the magnetic’s into the Aluminum and it come out relatively okay. In putting them on the shaft which is a 1/2″ like the Daftmans except his was 3/8″ and his bearing were seal ball bearing type where mine are 1/2″ Pillow block bearings. The biggest problem I have is figuring out how to wire the Hall effect timing system into my system. Any and all help appreciated I’s pretty much a beginner and need as much help as I can get.
    Thanks for listening to me ramble on. I have pictures but I don’t know how to post them on this.


  11. Hi everyone

    1. I’d like to make a thottle similar to yours to use with my X-Plane 11 and I’d like to know what should be the angular range of the handle to get 0 to 5 volts (idle to 100%).
    2. Is it necessary any electronic circuit to get a better performance?

    Best regards

  12. You don’t need an absolute 0..5v swing in order to build the throttle. The resolution of the ADC is more important – it gives you more “steps” between the min/max voltage that the sensor outputs. When you calibrate the throttle in X-Plane, it will use the min and max values coming from the ADC as the end points of the throttle travel in the simulator.

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