[simpits-tech] Making Panels
Chris Crowley
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Fri, 14 Jun 2002 06:07:34 -0400
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Hi All!
You know what would be a really big help to all of us that are just starting
out, is a part number and source listing for the switches on all the panels.
I have been to most everyone's web site and its still a mystery to me.
Hey Gwen, can't wait to see your graphics!!
Thanks
Chris C
-----Original Message-----
From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
[mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org]On Behalf Of Gwen de Lucero
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:18 PM
To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] Making Panels
Hi Joseph,
I am currently finishing up making the panels for my Aimsworth F-16C block
50/52 cockpit. I spent several months mulling over different ideas for the
best method of making affordable panels that can be backlit, look realistic,
and are durable. The method I ended up going with is based on Martin
Schmitt's suggestion for panels (see Martin's drawing on this page:
http://www.xflight.de/f16/pe_sim_pnl.htm ):
The panels are made of three primary parts: a printed transparency, a
plexiglass faceplate, and a black abs plastic backplate...
-I made 150 dpi graphics in photoshop for the panels ( I plan to post
these on the simpits site soon for anyone to use... all the files total
about 11 megs zipped).
-I reverse-print the faceplates on transparency with a good laser printer.
At the same time I print a copy of each page of panels on an adhesive-backed
white sheet (purchased at Kinko's for about 90 cents per page). These are
to be used as patterns for cutting the plexiglass.
-I cut the adhesive backed copies of the panels out and carefully arranged
them on my sheet of plexiglass so as not to waste more material than
necessary, then using a tabletop scroll-saw cut out the panels. Clean up
the edges with sandpaper and a dremel flex-shaft tool with a sanding drum.
-Next I spray the backside (the printed side) of the transparencies with a
light layer of flat white paint, just enough to make the transparent areas
white. After this is dry I spay over the white with one coat of clear
matte.
-The next part is the hardest- adhering the transparencies to the
plexiglass without misaligning or damaging them. After trying a few types
of spray adhesive and finding that the glue seized almost as soon as I
touched the plexi with the transparency I decided to try using the clear
matte paint. This actually seems to work fairly well and allows plenty of
time to align the transparency. - I spray the back of the transparency and
the front of the plexi each with one coat of clear matte and let it dry
completely. Then I spray each of them again with another coat of matte
clear and let it dry for a few minutes then place the transparency on the
plexiglass, align it, and work the bubbles out (easy to do by looking at the
back of the faceplate. After this point you should really let your work dry
for at least a few days before moving ahead.
-After allowing the previous work to dry thoroughly I carefully mask off
just the white text/graphics areas on the faceplates with masking tape cut
to just cover the white parts. Then paint the entire faceplate (front back
and sides ) with several light coats of flat black paint. Once the black is
dry, remove the masking tape and then shoot the whole faceplate with a
couple lights coats of matte clear.
This completes the faceplate... after that all you need to do is cut the
matching backplate for the panel and you're ready to drill holes for
switches etc...
For backlighting (and I must confess I haven't thoroughly tested this yet)
I intend to drill holes through the backplate and into the back of the
faceplate of each panel the right size to accept a standard LED. Most of
the panels ought to be able to be sufficiently lit with 3 or 4 LEDs.
At this point I have cut all but a few of the right side panels for my
cockpit. I have finished fully assembling and painting several panels
including the landing gear panel which I'm particularly proud of :)
When All is said and done I expect to have spent a total of roughly
$160.00 to make all the panels for my pit (not including switches, LEDs
etc)...
20 sheets adhesive backed paper - 20.00
1 2' X 4' X 1/8" sheet plexiglass - 12.00
1 box laser printer transparencies - 40.00
spray paints (black, white, yellow, clear)- 30.00
12 12" X 12" X 1/8" black ABS plastic - 60.00 (you could easily
substitute painted sheet metal for this)
total 162.00 +/- a few dollars here
and there
I know I've been long winded but I figured you'd like to have the details.
I'll see if I can post some photos of my panels in the near future (once I
get a digital camera).
Good luck to you.
Gwen
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Daigle
To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 12:54 PM
Subject: [simpits-tech] Making Panels
Hi,
I interesting in knowing what would be the best material to use for
making cockpit panels, display panals, etc. I've seen things like the CSI,
and Nova Series panels, but I thought I would be cheaper to make my own. I
anyone could give some advice on what to use and where to get it, that would
be excellent.
Thanks
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Hi=20
All!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>You=20
know what would be a really big help to all of us that are just starting =
out, is=20
a part number and source listing for the switches on all the panels. I =
have been=20
to most everyone's web site and its still a mystery to me. =20
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Hey=20
Gwen, can't wait to see your graphics!!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Thanks=20
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D300130210-14062002><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Chris=20
C</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org =
[mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org]<B>On=20
Behalf Of </B>Gwen de Lucero<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 13, 2002 =
9:18=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re:=20
[simpits-tech] Making Panels<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Joseph,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am currently finishing up making =
the panels for=20
my Aimsworth F-16C block 50/52 cockpit. I spent several months =
mulling=20
over different ideas for the best method of making affordable panels =
that can=20
be backlit, look realistic, and are durable. The method I ended =
up going=20
with is based on Martin Schmitt's suggestion for panels (see Martin's =
drawing=20
on this page: <A=20
=
href=3D"http://www.xflight.de/f16/pe_sim_pnl.htm">http://www.xflight.de/f=
16/pe_sim_pnl.htm</A> =20
):</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The panels are made of three primary =
parts: a=20
printed transparency, a plexiglass faceplate, and a black abs =
plastic=20
backplate...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-I made 150 dpi graphics in photoshop =
for the=20
panels ( I plan to post these on the simpits site soon for anyone to =
use...=20
all the files total about 11 megs zipped). </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-I reverse-print the faceplates on =
transparency=20
with a good laser printer. At the same time I print a copy of =
each page=20
of panels on an adhesive-backed white sheet (purchased at Kinko's for =
about 90=20
cents per page). These are to be used as patterns for cutting =
the=20
plexiglass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-I cut the adhesive backed copies of =
the panels=20
out and carefully arranged them on my sheet of plexiglass so as not to =
waste=20
more material than necessary, then using a tabletop scroll-saw cut out =
the=20
panels. Clean up the edges with sandpaper and a dremel =
flex-shaft tool=20
with a sanding drum.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Next I spray the backside (the =
printed side) of=20
the transparencies with a light layer of flat white paint, just enough =
to make=20
the transparent areas white. After this is dry I spay over the =
white=20
with one coat of clear matte.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-The next part is the hardest- =
adhering the=20
transparencies to the plexiglass without misaligning or damaging =
them. =20
After trying a few types of spray adhesive and finding that the glue =
seized=20
almost as soon as I touched the plexi with the transparency I decided =
to try=20
using the clear matte paint. This actually seems to work fairly =
well and=20
allows plenty of time to align the transparency. - I spray the back of =
the=20
transparency and the front of the plexi each with one coat of clear =
matte and=20
let it dry completely. Then I spray each of them again with =
another coat=20
of matte clear and let it dry for a few minutes then place the =
transparency on=20
the plexiglass, align it, and work the bubbles out (easy to do by =
looking at=20
the back of the faceplate. After this point you should really =
let your=20
work dry for at least a few days before moving ahead.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-After allowing the previous work to =
dry=20
thoroughly I carefully mask off just the white text/graphics areas on =
the=20
faceplates with masking tape cut to just cover the white parts. =
Then=20
paint the entire faceplate (front back and sides ) with several light =
coats of=20
flat black paint. Once the black is dry, remove the masking tape =
and=20
then shoot the whole faceplate with a couple lights coats of matte=20
clear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This completes the faceplate... after =
that all=20
you need to do is cut the matching backplate for the panel and you're =
ready to=20
drill holes for switches etc...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>For backlighting (and I must confess =
I haven't=20
thoroughly tested this yet) I intend to drill holes through the =
backplate and=20
into the back of the faceplate of each panel the right size to accept =
a=20
standard LED. Most of the panels ought to be able to be =
sufficiently lit=20
with 3 or 4 LEDs.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>At this point I have cut all but a =
few of the=20
right side panels for my cockpit. I have finished fully =
assembling and=20
painting several panels including the landing gear panel which I'm=20
particularly proud of :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>When All is said and done I expect to =
have spent=20
a total of roughly $160.00 to make all the panels for my pit (not =
including=20
switches, LEDs etc)...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>20 sheets adhesive backed=20
paper - =
20.00<BR>1=20
2' X 4' X 1/8" sheet=20
plexiglass - =
12.00<BR>1 box=20
laser printer transparencies =
-=20
40.00<BR>spray paints (black, white, yellow, clear)- 30.00<BR>12 12" X =
12" X=20
1/8" black ABS plastic - 60.00 (you could =
easily=20
substitute painted sheet metal for=20
=
this)<BR> &nbs=
p;=20
=
<BR>total &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
162.00 +/- a few dollars here and there</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I know I've been long winded but I =
figured you'd=20
like to have the details. I'll see if I can post some photos of =
my=20
panels in the near future (once I get a digital camera).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Good luck to you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Gwen</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Djosephdaigle@taurusnet.tzo.com=20
href=3D"mailto:josephdaigle@taurusnet.tzo.com">Joseph Daigle</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dsimpits-tech@simpits.org=20
=
href=3D"mailto:simpits-tech@simpits.org">simpits-tech@simpits.org</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 13, 2002 =
12:54=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [simpits-tech] =
Making=20
Panels</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I interesting in knowing what would =
be the best=20
material to use for making cockpit panels, display panals, etc. I've =
seen=20
things like the CSI, and Nova Series panels, but I thought I would =
be=20
cheaper to make my own. I anyone could give some advice on what to =
use and=20
where to get it, that would be excellent.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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