[simpits-tech] Making Panels
Gwen de Lucero
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:18:10 -0400
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Hi Joseph,
I am currently finishing up making the panels for my Aimsworth F-16C =
block 50/52 cockpit. I spent several months mulling over different =
ideas for the best method of making affordable panels that can be =
backlit, look realistic, and are durable. The method I ended up going =
with is based on Martin Schmitt's suggestion for panels (see Martin's =
drawing on this page: http://www.xflight.de/f16/pe_sim_pnl.htm ):
The panels are made of three primary parts: a printed transparency, a =
plexiglass faceplate, and a black abs plastic backplate...
-I made 150 dpi graphics in photoshop for the panels ( I plan to post =
these on the simpits site soon for anyone to use... all the files total =
about 11 megs zipped).=20
-I reverse-print the faceplates on transparency with a good laser =
printer. At the same time I print a copy of each page of panels on an =
adhesive-backed white sheet (purchased at Kinko's for about 90 cents per =
page). These are to be used as patterns for cutting the plexiglass.
-I cut the adhesive backed copies of the panels out and carefully =
arranged them on my sheet of plexiglass so as not to waste more material =
than necessary, then using a tabletop scroll-saw cut out the panels. =
Clean up the edges with sandpaper and a dremel flex-shaft tool with a =
sanding drum.
-Next I spray the backside (the printed side) of the transparencies with =
a light layer of flat white paint, just enough to make the transparent =
areas white. After this is dry I spay over the white with one coat of =
clear matte.
-The next part is the hardest- adhering the transparencies to the =
plexiglass without misaligning or damaging them. After trying a few =
types of spray adhesive and finding that the glue seized almost as soon =
as I touched the plexi with the transparency I decided to try using the =
clear matte paint. This actually seems to work fairly well and allows =
plenty of time to align the transparency. - I spray the back of the =
transparency and the front of the plexi each with one coat of clear =
matte and let it dry completely. Then I spray each of them again with =
another coat of matte clear and let it dry for a few minutes then place =
the transparency on the plexiglass, align it, and work the bubbles out =
(easy to do by looking at the back of the faceplate. After this point =
you should really let your work dry for at least a few days before =
moving ahead.
-After allowing the previous work to dry thoroughly I carefully mask off =
just the white text/graphics areas on the faceplates with masking tape =
cut to just cover the white parts. Then paint the entire faceplate =
(front back and sides ) with several light coats of flat black paint. =
Once the black is dry, remove the masking tape and then shoot the whole =
faceplate with a couple lights coats of matte clear.
This completes the faceplate... after that all you need to do is cut the =
matching backplate for the panel and you're ready to drill holes for =
switches etc...
For backlighting (and I must confess I haven't thoroughly tested this =
yet) I intend to drill holes through the backplate and into the back of =
the faceplate of each panel the right size to accept a standard LED. =
Most of the panels ought to be able to be sufficiently lit with 3 or 4 =
LEDs.
At this point I have cut all but a few of the right side panels for my =
cockpit. I have finished fully assembling and painting several panels =
including the landing gear panel which I'm particularly proud of :)
When All is said and done I expect to have spent a total of roughly =
$160.00 to make all the panels for my pit (not including switches, LEDs =
etc)...
20 sheets adhesive backed paper - 20.00
1 2' X 4' X 1/8" sheet plexiglass - 12.00
1 box laser printer transparencies - 40.00
spray paints (black, white, yellow, clear)- 30.00
12 12" X 12" X 1/8" black ABS plastic - 60.00 (you could easily =
substitute painted sheet metal for this)
=20
total 162.00 +/- a few dollars here =
and there
I know I've been long winded but I figured you'd like to have the =
details. I'll see if I can post some photos of my panels in the near =
future (once I get a digital camera).
Good luck to you.
Gwen
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Joseph Daigle=20
To: simpits-tech@simpits.org=20
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 12:54 PM
Subject: [simpits-tech] Making Panels
Hi,
I interesting in knowing what would be the best material to use for =
making cockpit panels, display panals, etc. I've seen things like the =
CSI, and Nova Series panels, but I thought I would be cheaper to make my =
own. I anyone could give some advice on what to use and where to get it, =
that would be excellent.
Thanks
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Joseph,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am currently finishing up making the =
panels for=20
my Aimsworth F-16C block 50/52 cockpit. I spent several months =
mulling=20
over different ideas for the best method of making affordable panels =
that can be=20
backlit, look realistic, and are durable. The method I ended up =
going with=20
is based on Martin Schmitt's suggestion for panels (see Martin's drawing =
on this=20
page: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.xflight.de/f16/pe_sim_pnl.htm">http://www.xflight.de/f=
16/pe_sim_pnl.htm</A> =20
):</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The panels are made of three primary =
parts: a=20
printed transparency, a plexiglass faceplate, and a black abs =
plastic=20
backplate...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-I made 150 dpi graphics in photoshop =
for the=20
panels ( I plan to post these on the simpits site soon for anyone to =
use... all=20
the files total about 11 megs zipped). </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-I reverse-print the faceplates on =
transparency=20
with a good laser printer. At the same time I print a copy of each =
page of=20
panels on an adhesive-backed white sheet (purchased at Kinko's for about =
90=20
cents per page). These are to be used as patterns for cutting the=20
plexiglass.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-I cut the adhesive backed copies of =
the panels out=20
and carefully arranged them on my sheet of plexiglass so as not to waste =
more=20
material than necessary, then using a tabletop scroll-saw cut out the=20
panels. Clean up the edges with sandpaper and a dremel flex-shaft =
tool=20
with a sanding drum.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Next I spray the backside (the printed =
side) of=20
the transparencies with a light layer of flat white paint, just enough =
to make=20
the transparent areas white. After this is dry I spay over the =
white with=20
one coat of clear matte.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-The next part is the hardest- adhering =
the=20
transparencies to the plexiglass without misaligning or damaging =
them. =20
After trying a few types of spray adhesive and finding that the glue =
seized=20
almost as soon as I touched the plexi with the transparency I decided to =
try=20
using the clear matte paint. This actually seems to work fairly =
well and=20
allows plenty of time to align the transparency. - I spray the back of =
the=20
transparency and the front of the plexi each with one coat of clear =
matte and=20
let it dry completely. Then I spray each of them again with =
another coat=20
of matte clear and let it dry for a few minutes then place the =
transparency on=20
the plexiglass, align it, and work the bubbles out (easy to do by =
looking at the=20
back of the faceplate. After this point you should really let your =
work=20
dry for at least a few days before moving ahead.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-After allowing the previous work to =
dry thoroughly=20
I carefully mask off just the white text/graphics areas on the =
faceplates with=20
masking tape cut to just cover the white parts. Then paint the =
entire=20
faceplate (front back and sides ) with several light coats of flat black =
paint. Once the black is dry, remove the masking tape and then =
shoot the=20
whole faceplate with a couple lights coats of matte clear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This completes the faceplate... after =
that all you=20
need to do is cut the matching backplate for the panel and you're ready =
to drill=20
holes for switches etc...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>For backlighting (and I must confess I =
haven't=20
thoroughly tested this yet) I intend to drill holes through the =
backplate and=20
into the back of the faceplate of each panel the right size to accept a =
standard=20
LED. Most of the panels ought to be able to be sufficiently lit =
with 3 or=20
4 LEDs.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>At this point I have cut all but a few =
of the right=20
side panels for my cockpit. I have finished fully assembling and =
painting=20
several panels including the landing gear panel which I'm particularly =
proud of=20
:)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>When All is said and done I expect to =
have spent a=20
total of roughly $160.00 to make all the panels for my pit (not =
including=20
switches, LEDs etc)...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>20 sheets adhesive backed=20
paper - =
20.00<BR>1=20
2' X 4' X 1/8" sheet =
plexiglass =20
- 12.00<BR>1 box laser printer=20
transparencies - =
40.00<BR>spray paints=20
(black, white, yellow, clear)- 30.00<BR>12 12" X 12" X 1/8" black ABS=20
plastic - 60.00 (you could easily substitute =
painted=20
sheet metal for=20
this)<BR> &nbs=
p;=20
<BR>total &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
162.00 +/- a few dollars here and there</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I know I've been long winded but I =
figured you'd=20
like to have the details. I'll see if I can post some photos of my =
panels=20
in the near future (once I get a digital camera).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Good luck to you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Gwen</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Djosephdaigle@taurusnet.tzo.com=20
href=3D"mailto:josephdaigle@taurusnet.tzo.com">Joseph Daigle</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dsimpits-tech@simpits.org=20
href=3D"mailto:simpits-tech@simpits.org">simpits-tech@simpits.org</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 13, 2002 =
12:54=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [simpits-tech] Making=20
Panels</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I interesting in knowing what would =
be the best=20
material to use for making cockpit panels, display panals, etc. I've =
seen=20
things like the CSI, and Nova Series panels, but I thought I would be =
cheaper=20
to make my own. I anyone could give some advice on what to use and =
where to=20
get it, that would be excellent.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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