[simpits-tech] Making Panels

[Marv De Beque]

You won't find a part number because the cost of the switches is
astronomical.

What people do is substitute what ever they can find.

I have been finding stuff at liquidation sales or making it.  Such is life.

Marv
-- 


> From: "Chris Crowley" <ccrowley@mccrowley.com>
> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 06:07:34 -0400
> To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> Subject: RE: [simpits-tech] Making Panels
> 
> Hi All!
> You know what would be a really big help to all of us that are just starting
> out, is a part number and source listing for the switches on all the panels.
> I have been to most everyone's web site and its still a mystery to me.
> 
> Hey Gwen, can't wait to see your graphics!!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris C
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
> [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org]On Behalf Of Gwen de Lucero
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:18 PM
> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] Making Panels
> 
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> I am currently finishing up making the panels for my Aimsworth F-16C block
> 50/52 cockpit.  I spent several months mulling over different ideas for the
> best method of making affordable panels that can be backlit, look realistic,
> and are durable.  The method I ended up going with is based on Martin
> Schmitt's suggestion for panels (see Martin's drawing on this page:
> http://www.xflight.de/f16/pe_sim_pnl.htm  ):
> 
> The panels are made of three primary parts: a printed transparency, a
> plexiglass faceplate, and a black abs plastic backplate...
> 
> -I made 150 dpi graphics in photoshop for the panels ( I plan to post
> these on the simpits site soon for anyone to use... all the files total
> about 11 megs zipped).
> 
> -I reverse-print the faceplates on transparency with a good laser printer.
> At the same time I print a copy of each page of panels on an adhesive-backed
> white sheet (purchased at Kinko's for about 90 cents per page).  These are
> to be used as patterns for cutting the plexiglass.
> 
> -I cut the adhesive backed copies of the panels out and carefully arranged
> them on my sheet of plexiglass so as not to waste more material than
> necessary, then using a tabletop scroll-saw cut out the panels.  Clean up
> the edges with sandpaper and a dremel flex-shaft tool with a sanding drum.
> 
> -Next I spray the backside (the printed side) of the transparencies with a
> light layer of flat white paint, just enough to make the transparent areas
> white.  After this is dry I spay over the white with one coat of clear
> matte.
> 
> -The next part is the hardest- adhering the transparencies to the
> plexiglass without misaligning or damaging them.  After trying a few types
> of spray adhesive and finding that the glue seized almost as soon as I
> touched the plexi with the transparency I decided to try using the clear
> matte paint.  This actually seems to work fairly well and allows plenty of
> time to align the transparency. - I spray the back of the transparency and
> the front of the plexi each with one coat of clear matte and let it dry
> completely.  Then I spray each of them again with another coat of matte
> clear and let it dry for a few minutes then place the transparency on the
> plexiglass, align it, and work the bubbles out (easy to do by looking at the
> back of the faceplate.  After this point you should really let your work dry
> for at least a few days before moving ahead.
> 
> -After allowing the previous work to dry thoroughly I carefully mask off
> just the white text/graphics areas on the faceplates with masking tape cut
> to just cover the white parts.  Then paint the entire faceplate (front back
> and sides ) with several light coats of flat black paint.  Once the black is
> dry, remove the masking tape and then shoot the whole faceplate with a
> couple lights coats of matte clear.
> 
> This completes the faceplate... after that all you need to do is cut the
> matching backplate for the panel and you're ready to drill holes for
> switches etc...
> 
> For backlighting (and I must confess I haven't thoroughly tested this yet)
> I intend to drill holes through the backplate and into the back of the
> faceplate of each panel the right size to accept a standard LED.  Most of
> the panels ought to be able to be sufficiently lit with 3 or 4 LEDs.
> 
> At this point I have cut all but a few of the right side panels for my
> cockpit.  I have finished fully assembling and painting several panels
> including the landing gear panel which I'm particularly proud of :)
> 
> When All is said and done I expect to have spent a total of roughly
> $160.00 to make all the panels for my pit (not including switches, LEDs
> etc)...
> 
> 20 sheets adhesive backed paper           - 20.00
> 1 2' X 4' X 1/8" sheet plexiglass         - 12.00
> 1 box laser printer transparencies        - 40.00
> spray paints (black, white, yellow, clear)- 30.00
> 12 12" X 12" X 1/8" black ABS plastic     - 60.00 (you could easily
> substitute painted sheet metal for this)
> 
> total                                      162.00 +/- a few dollars here
> and there
> 
> I know I've been long winded but I figured you'd like to have the details.
> I'll see if I can post some photos of my panels in the near future (once I
> get a digital camera).
> 
> Good luck to you.
> 
> Gwen
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joseph Daigle
> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 12:54 PM
> Subject: [simpits-tech] Making Panels
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I interesting in knowing what would be the best material to use for
> making cockpit panels, display panals, etc. I've seen things like the CSI,
> and Nova Series panels, but I thought I would be cheaper to make my own. I
> anyone could give some advice on what to use and where to get it, that would
> be excellent.
> 
> Thanks
>