[simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets
Ken Schlote
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Sun, 1 Dec 2002 12:39:13 -0800 (PST)
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One thing to note is that the printed side needs to be toward the board. If the other side is, there is enough light that gets around the traces do to the thickness of the acetate to make them smaller than you would like. So your printed PCB layout should be a reversed image.
Just my two cents.
Ken
Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com> wrote:There are many, may PCB layout programs available. Some are freeware and
others cost.
Do a search on the web and pick one that is in your budget.
I use a CAD drawing program with good success. You can get Turbo-CAD for
free on the WEB.
Douglass CAD makes stuff for the Mac and maybe the PC if you want a try
layout program instead.
Then print the design to a clear acetate on your printer. You might want to
print two and overlay them for better results.
On 12/1/02 1:08 PM, "Joseph Fagner" wrote:
> Hey Marv, I have used the photo etch system before on another project
> unrelated to pit building. It does work and you can get good results
> but there is definitely some art to it. I used a PCB layout designed by
> someone else and could successfully make decent boards with this, but
> have not myself figured out how to use any software to layout a pcb, so
> that is the first hurdle is laying out the tracings. The next is
> exposing the presensitized board, pretty easy to do with a UV light.
> Then you have to take off the sensitized area with the reagent. This
> can lead to problems with leaving in too long and taking off too much of
> the sensitized area. Then you have to develop it in the ferric chloride
> solution. This takes awhile but does work.
>
> Biggest problem I had was when traces where close together, you would
> some times not remove all the copper and have to go and manually scrape
> it out. If you tried developing longer to get this resolution, you
> invariably etch some pads and other tracings too thin.
>
> It does work and expect to go through a learning curve when etching but
> the biggest problem/hurdle for me was making a pcb layout to transfer to
> clear acetate sheet for the sensitizing step.
>
> If anyone out there has a good easy program to use, please send the info
> our way. I have tried protel, but it was too complex for me and didn't
> want to learn the whole thing for a 30 day trial software. I'm not
> about to pay $8,000 for the software
>
> Jay
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
> [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org] On Behalf Of Marv De Beque
> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 10:52 AM
> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Subject: [simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets
>
> I recently bought the Press-N-Peel PC Board film to try making some
> small
> prototype boards.
>
> The bad news is that I was very underwhelmed with the results.
>
> The good news is that it only took about 5 minutes of working with the
> stuff
> to realize that it was not going to work.
>
> The biggest problem is registering the film over the PCB. Once you get
> it
> where you want it, applying the hot iron will move it where you don't
> want
> it. However, it won't move until it has deposited 50% of the toner in
> one
> spot and then finishes with the remainder smeared over a different spot.
>
> Neither spot is where I had intended it to go.
>
> Not sure if I want to explore the UV photo etch route or not.
>
> Marv
>
>
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> page. Thanks!
>
>
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<P>One thing to note is that the printed side needs to be toward the board. If the other side is, there is enough light that gets around the traces do to the thickness of the acetate to make them smaller than you would like. So your printed PCB layout should be a reversed image.
<P>Just my two cents.
<P>Ken
<P> <B><I>Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com></I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">There are many, may PCB layout programs available. Some are freeware and<BR>others cost.<BR><BR>Do a search on the web and pick one that is in your budget.<BR><BR>I use a CAD drawing program with good success. You can get Turbo-CAD for<BR>free on the WEB.<BR><BR>Douglass CAD makes stuff for the Mac and maybe the PC if you want a try<BR>layout program instead.<BR><BR>Then print the design to a clear acetate on your printer. You might want to<BR>print two and overlay them for better results.<BR><BR><BR>On 12/1/02 1:08 PM, "Joseph Fagner" <CREASE-GUARD@ATTBI.COM>wrote:<BR><BR>> Hey Marv, I have used the photo etch system before on another project<BR>> unrelated to pit building. It does work and you can get good results<BR>> but there is definitely some art to it. I used a PCB layout designed by<BR>> someone else and could successfully make decent boards with this, but<BR>> have not myself figured out how to use any software to layout a pcb, so<BR>> that is the first hurdle is laying out the tracings. The next is<BR>> exposing the presensitized board, pretty easy to do with a UV light.<BR>> Then you have to take off the sensitized area with the reagent. This<BR>> can lead to problems with leaving in too long and taking off too much of<BR>> the sensitized area. Then you have to develop it in the ferric chloride<BR>> solution. This takes awhile but does work.<BR>> <BR>> Biggest problem I had was when traces where close together, you would<BR>> some times not remove all the copper and have to go and manually scrape<BR>> it out. If you tried developing longer to get this resolution, you<BR>> invariably etch some pads and other tracings too thin.<BR>> <BR>> It does work and expect to go through a learning curve when etching but<BR>> the biggest problem/hurdle for me was making a pcb layout to transfer to<BR>> clear acetate sheet for the sensitizing step.<BR>> <BR>> If anyone out there has a good easy program to use, please send the info<BR>> our way. I have tried protel, but it was too complex for me and didn't<BR>> want to learn the whole thing for a 30 day trial software. I'm not<BR>> about to pay $8,000 for the software<BR>> <BR>> Jay<BR>> <BR>> -----Original Message-----<BR>> From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org<BR>> [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org] On Behalf Of Marv De Beque<BR>> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 10:52 AM<BR>> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR>> Subject: [simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets<BR>> <BR>> I recently bought the Press-N-Peel PC Board film to try making some<BR>> small<BR>> prototype boards.<BR>> <BR>> The bad news is that I was very underwhelmed with the results.<BR>> <BR>> The good news is that it only took about 5 minutes of working with the<BR>> stuff<BR>> to realize that it was not going to work.<BR>> <BR>> The biggest problem is registering the film over the PCB. Once you get<BR>> it<BR>> where you want it, applying the hot iron will move it where you don't<BR>> want<BR>> it. However, it won't move until it has deposited 50% of the toner in<BR>> one<BR>> spot and then finishes with the remainder smeared over a different spot.<BR>> <BR>> Neither spot is where I had intended it to go.<BR>> <BR>> Not sure if I want to explore the UV photo etch route or not.<BR>> <BR>> Marv<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> _______________________________________________<BR>> Simpits-tech mailing list<BR>> Simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR>> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech<BR>> To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above<BR>> page. Thanks!<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> _______________________________________________<BR>> Simpits-tech mailing list<BR>> Simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR>> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech<BR>> To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above page.<BR>> Thanks!<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Simpits-tech mailing list<BR>Simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR>http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech<BR>To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above page. Thanks!</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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