[simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets
Marv De Beque
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:35:32 -0500
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Interesting. Easy for me to do, but I did not consider it.
On 12/1/02 3:39 PM, "Ken Schlote" <kschlote2@yahoo.com> wrote:
> One thing to note is that the printed side needs to be toward the board. If
> the other side is, there is enough light that gets around the traces do to the
> thickness of the acetate to make them smaller than you would like. So your
> printed PCB layout should be a reversed image.
>
> Just my two cents.
>
> Ken
>
> Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com> wrote:
>> There are many, may PCB layout programs available. Some are freeware and
>> others cost.
>>
>> Do a search on the web and pick one that is in your budget.
>>
>> I use a CAD drawing program with good success. You can get Turbo-CAD for
>> free on the WEB.
>>
>> Douglass CAD makes stuff for the Mac and maybe the PC if you want a try
>> layout program instead.
>>
>> Then print the design to a clear acetate on your printer. You might want to
>> print two and overlay them for better results.
>>
>>
>> On 12/1/02 1:08 PM, "Joseph Fagner" wrote:
>>
>>> > Hey Marv, I have used the photo etch system before on another project
>>> > unrelated to pit building. It does work and you can get good results
>>> > but there is definitely some art to it. I used a PCB layout designed by
>>> > someone else and could successfully make decent boards with this, but
>>> > hav! e ! not myself figured out how to use any software to layout a pcb,
>>> so
>>> > that is the first hurdle is laying out the tracings. The next is
>>> > exposing the presensitized board, pretty easy to do with a UV light.
>>> > Then you have to take off the sensitized area with the reagent. This
>>> > can lead to problems with leaving in too long and taking off too much of
>>> > the sensitized area. Then you have to develop it in the ferric chloride
>>> > solution. This takes awhile but does work.
>>> >
>>> > Biggest problem I had was when traces where close together, you would
>>> > some times not remove all the copper and have to go and manually scrape
>>> > it out. If you tried developing longer to get this resolution, you
>>> > invariably etch some pads and other tracings too thin.
>>> >
>>> > It does work and expect to go through a learning curve when etching but
>>> > the biggest problem/hurdle for me was making a pcb layout to transfer to
>>> > ! cl! ear acetate sheet for the sensitizing step.
>>> >
>>> > If anyone out there has a good easy program to use, please send the info
>>> > our way. I have tried protel, but it was too complex for me and didn't
>>> > want to learn the whole thing for a 30 day trial software. I'm not
>>> > about to pay $8,000 for the software
>>> >
>>> > Jay
>>> >
>>> > -----Original Message-----
>>> > From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
>>> > [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org] On Behalf Of Marv De Beque
>>> > Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 10:52 AM
>>> > To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>> > Subject: [simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets
>>> >
>>> > I recently bought the Press-N-Peel PC Board film to try making some
>>> > small
>>> > prototype boards.
>>> >
>>> > The bad news is that I was very underwhelmed with the results.
>>> >
>>> > The good news is that it only took about 5 minutes of working with the
>>> > stuff
>>> > to real! iz! e that it was not going to work.
>>> >
>>> > The biggest problem is registering the film over the PCB. Once you get
>>> > it
>>> > where you want it, applying the hot iron will move it where you don't
>>> > want
>>> > it. However, it won't move until it has deposited 50% of the toner in
>>> > one
>>> > spot and then finishes with the remainder smeared over a different spot.
>>> >
>>> > Neither spot is where I had intended it to go.
>>> >
>>> > Not sure if I want to explore the UV photo etch route or not.
>>> >
>>> > Marv
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Simpits-tech mailing list
>>> > Simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>> > http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech
>>> > To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above
>>> > page. Thanks!
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Simpits-tech mailing list
>>> > Simpits-tec! h@! simpits.org
>>> > http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech
>>> > To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above
>>> page.
>>> > Thanks!
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Simpits-tech mailing list
>> Simpits-tech@simpits.org
>> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech
>> To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above page.
>> Thanks!
>
>
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<TITLE>Re: [simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets</TITLE>
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<FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">Interesting. Easy for me to do, but I did not co=
nsider it.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
On 12/1/02 3:39 PM, "Ken Schlote" <kschlote2@yahoo.com> wro=
te:<BR>
<BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">One thing to note is that the print=
ed side needs to be toward the board. If the other side is, there is enough =
light that gets around the traces do to the thickness of the acetate to make=
them smaller than you would like. So your printed PCB layout should be a re=
versed image. <BR>
<BR>
Just my two cents. <BR>
<BR>
Ken <BR>
<BR>
<B><I>Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com></I></B> wrote: <BR>
</FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">There are many, may PCB layout prog=
rams available. Some are freeware and<BR>
others cost.<BR>
<BR>
Do a search on the web and pick one that is in your budget.<BR>
<BR>
I use a CAD drawing program with good success. You can get Turbo-CAD for<BR=
>
free on the WEB.<BR>
<BR>
Douglass CAD makes stuff for the Mac and maybe the PC if you want a try<BR>
layout program instead.<BR>
<BR>
Then print the design to a clear acetate on your printer. You might want to=
<BR>
print two and overlay them for better results.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
On 12/1/02 1:08 PM, "Joseph Fagner" wrote:<BR>
<BR>
> Hey Marv, I have used the photo etch system before on another project<=
BR>
> unrelated to pit building. It does work and you can get good results<B=
R>
> but there is definitely some art to it. I used a PCB layout designed b=
y<BR>
> someone else and could successfully make decent boards with this, but<=
BR>
> hav! e ! not myself figured out how to use any software to layout a pc=
b, so<BR>
> that is the first hurdle is laying out the tracings. The next is<BR>
> exposing the presensitized board, pretty easy to do with a UV light.<B=
R>
> Then you have to take off the sensitized area with the reagent. This<B=
R>
> can lead to problems with leaving in too long and taking off too much =
of<BR>
> the sensitized area. Then you have to develop it in the ferric chlorid=
e<BR>
> solution. This takes awhile but does work.<BR>
> <BR>
> Biggest problem I had was when traces where close together, you would<=
BR>
> some times not remove all the copper and have to go and manually scrap=
e<BR>
> it out. If you tried developing longer to get this resolution, you<BR>
> invariably etch some pads and other tracings too thin.<BR>
> <BR>
> It does work and expect to go through a learning curve when etching bu=
t<BR>
> the biggest problem/hurdle for me was making a pcb layout to transfer =
to<BR>
> ! cl! ear acetate sheet for the sensitizing step.<BR>
> <BR>
> If anyone out there has a good easy program to use, please send the in=
fo<BR>
> our way. I have tried protel, but it was too complex for me and didn't=
<BR>
> want to learn the whole thing for a 30 day trial software. I'm not<BR>
> about to pay $8,000 for the software<BR>
> <BR>
> Jay<BR>
> <BR>
> -----Original Message-----<BR>
> From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org<BR>
> [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org] On Behalf Of Marv De Beque<BR>
> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 10:52 AM<BR>
> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR>
> Subject: [simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets<BR>
> <BR>
> I recently bought the Press-N-Peel PC Board film to try making some<BR=
>
> small<BR>
> prototype boards.<BR>
> <BR>
> The bad news is that I was very underwhelmed with the results.<BR>
> <BR>
> The good news is that it only took about 5 minutes of working with the=
<BR>
> stuff<BR>
> to real! iz! e that it was not going to work.<BR>
> <BR>
> The biggest problem is registering the film over the PCB. Once you get=
<BR>
> it<BR>
> where you want it, applying the hot iron will move it where you don't<=
BR>
> want<BR>
> it. However, it won't move until it has deposited 50% of the toner in<=
BR>
> one<BR>
> spot and then finishes with the remainder smeared over a different spo=
t.<BR>
> <BR>
> Neither spot is where I had intended it to go.<BR>
> <BR>
> Not sure if I want to explore the UV photo etch route or not.<BR>
> <BR>
> Marv<BR>
> <BR>
> <BR>
> _______________________________________________<BR>
> Simpits-tech mailing list<BR>
> Simpits-tech@simpits.org<BR>
> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech<BR>
> To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above=
<BR>
> page. Thanks!<BR>
> <BR>
> <BR>
> _______________________________________________<BR>
> Simpits-tech mailing list<BR>
> Simpits-tec! h@! simpits.org<BR>
> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech<BR>
> To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above=
page.<BR>
> Thanks!<BR>
<BR>
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http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech<BR>
To unsubscribe, please see the instructions at the bottom of the above page=
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