[simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets

[Joseph Fagner]

Hey Marv, I have used the photo etch system before on another project
unrelated to pit building.  It does work and you can get good results
but there is definitely some art to it.  I used a PCB layout designed by
someone else and could successfully make decent boards with this, but
have not myself figured out how to use any software to layout a pcb, so
that is the first hurdle is laying out the tracings.  The next is
exposing the presensitized board, pretty easy to do with a UV light.
Then you have to take off the sensitized area with the reagent.  This
can lead to problems with leaving in too long and taking off too much of
the sensitized area.  Then you have to develop it in the ferric chloride
solution.  This takes awhile but does work.  

Biggest problem I had was when traces where close together, you would
some times not remove all the copper and have to go and manually scrape
it out.  If you tried developing longer to get this resolution, you
invariably etch some pads and other tracings too thin.

It does work and expect to go through a learning curve when etching but
the biggest problem/hurdle for me was making a pcb layout to transfer to
clear acetate sheet for the sensitizing step.

If anyone out there has a good easy program to use, please send the info
our way.  I have tried protel, but it was too complex for me and didn't
want to learn the whole thing for a 30 day trial software.  I'm not
about to pay $8,000 for the software

Jay

-----Original Message-----
From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
[mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org] On Behalf Of Marv De Beque
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 10:52 AM
To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
Subject: [simpits-tech] Press-N-Squeal PC Board Sheets

I recently bought the Press-N-Peel PC Board film to try making some
small
prototype boards.

The bad news is that I was very underwhelmed with the results.

The good news is that it only took about 5 minutes of working with the
stuff
to realize that it was not going to work.

The biggest problem is registering the film over the PCB.  Once you get
it
where you want it, applying the hot iron will move it where you don't
want
it.  However, it won't move until it has deposited 50% of the toner in
one
spot and then finishes with the remainder smeared over a different spot.

Neither spot is where I had intended it to go.

Not sure if I want to explore the UV photo etch route or not.

Marv


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