[simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
Marv De Beque
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Thu, 10 Oct 2002 05:55:11 -0400
Great! Email me directly for my address when ready.
--
> From: "Ido Dekkers" <idekkers@clicksoftware.com>
> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 09:32:45 +0300
> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>
>
> Hopefully with some wishful thinking I'll have some to send you next week,
> Holding my fingers crossed.
>
> Ido
>
>
>
> Marv De Beque
> <mdebeque@woh.r
> r.com> To
> Sent by: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> simpits-tech-ad cc
> min@simpits.org
> bcc
>
> 10/08/2002 Subject
> 11:28 PM Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>
>
> Please respond
> to simpits-tech
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Actually, anyone interested in investing in knobs can simply send me real
> ones in good condition. I only need them for a week and I'll make molds of
> what ever I get. Then you can have the real one back in the same condition
> it was sent to me.
>
> Marv
> --
>
>
>> From: joab ryan <joab_ryan@yahoo.com>
>> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>> Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:27:45 -0700 (PDT)
>> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>
>> Ill tell you guys, where i work now we have a CNC and
>> a can throw some work on it. But i dont have a program
>> to convert cad drawings! they manually punch in simple
>> stuff (what a waste) if someone could program them I
>> can run them at cost of materials, so make a mold to
>> hold all of the knobs.
>> Let me know.
>>
>> this includes anything else to...
>>
>> --- Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com> wrote:
>>> Let's put it this way. A shop will charge more than
>>> $50 an hour for mill
>>> work.
>>>
>>> Even with CAD drawings and CNC machines there is no
>>> way you can get a
>>> finished mold in two hours time. I can assure you
>>> that there is all kind of
>>> set up involved, so I would expect more than 2
>>> hours.
>>>
>>> My shop experience is lower than experts, and I do
>>> not have a CNC mill.
>>>
>>> If I can buy a knob for $50 and spend another hour
>>> making a mold using that
>>> knob, I have probably saved myself money and time
>>> and I have a more accurate
>>> part in the end.
>>>
>>> Yes, clear resin is a candidate, but it requires
>>> heated molds.
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>>> From: Mike Williams <mikewilliams3@comcast.net>
>>>> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>> Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 21:38:50 -0500
>>>> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>> Subject: RE: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>>
>>>> Marv, what about the clear resin that comes in
>>> those home kits, the ones
>>>> where you can cast a snakes head
>>>> or cockroach :)- into clear resin, what is the
>>> name of that stuff and where
>>>> can it be had? Knobs are a bit away for me yet
>>> too, Although I had pretty
>>>> good luck using polyesther resin (fiberglass
>>> resin) and using one time
>>>> modeling clay molds from original. (eperimenting
>>> last winter). Has any of
>>>> the home CNC guys cranked up their mills yet, can
>>> molds be made from a CNC
>>>> for casting?
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
>>>> [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org]On Behalf
>>> Of Marv De Beque
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 7:37 PM
>>>> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Interesting about the lead-free pewter.
>>>>
>>>> I have tried some experiments with translucent
>>> plastics for light plates and
>>>> I was very disappointed at the performance (almost
>>> nil).
>>>>
>>>> Water clear plastic is the only way to go. That
>>> is what the knob
>>>> manufactures use and I am sure that they put a lot
>>> of science and
>>>> engineering into the designs. So I will take
>>> their lead since I don't want
>>>> to reinvent the wheel (only borrow it to make a
>>> mold). ;-)
>>>>
>>>> Marv
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> From: Steve Wilson <mafsix@attbi.com>
>>>>> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>>> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:24:32 -0400
>>>>> To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>>>
>>>>> Lead is toxic. Lead-free pewter is not.
>>> Different pewter alloys have
>>>>> different strengths, and the stronger variants
>>> can be used for harness
>>>> buckles
>>>>> and the like. Strong stuff, especially for knobs
>>> and small mechanical
>>>> parts.
>>>>>
>>>>> What you want to cast with, Marv, is a
>>> translucent white epoxy resin that
>>>> can
>>>>> be painted, then lit from underneath.
>>>>>
>>>>> RP would only be good for mold masters.
>>> Depending on the quality and the
>>>>> material used, perhaps they'd need a bit of a
>>> polish, but then they would
>>>> need
>>>>> to be cast in resin.
>>>>> --
>>>>> Steve Wilson, mafsix@attbi.com on 10/02/2002
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 02 Oct 2002 18:02:52 -0400, Marv De Beque
>>> wrote:
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> :::: Lead and pewter are things to avoid. Not
>>> only are they too
>>>>> :::: soft, they are
>>>>> :::: very toxic materials.
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> :::: For the home shop, two-part epoxies are
>>> probably the way to go.
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> :::: There are a lot of good quality silicon
>>> molding rubbers that
>>>>> :::: can be used to
>>>>> :::: make a mold from. That would be my bet.
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> :::: As for making RP parts, they are simply
>>> not strong enough for
>>>>> :::: real world
>>>>> :::: use.
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> :::: Where they shine is for making example
>>> parts to check theory
>>>>> :::: or, if high
>>>>> :::: enough quality, as masters for making
>>> rubber molds. I think
>>>>> :::: the latter
>>>>> :::: holds some promise. That is where my
>>> money is at.
>>>>> :::: --
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> :::: > From: "Jim K." <JimK@sisna.com>
>>>>> :::: > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>>> :::: > Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 13:28:09 -0600
>>>>> :::: > To: Simpits <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
>>>>> :::: > Subject: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>>> :::: >
>>>>> :::: > Marv,
>>>>> :::: > The quality of RP prototypes seems to
>>> rely on the machine
>>>>> :::: being used and
>>>>> :::: > what type of RP is being used. There
>>> are several different
>>>>> :::: RP methods and
>>>>> :::: > they do produce different results. I
>>> think you can change
>>>>> :::: the quality
>>>>> :::: > outcome of a part via your drawing
>>> and/or the settings in
>>>>> :::: the RP machine
>>>>> :::: > itself and the way you make the part is
>>> critical as well.
>>>>> :::: I.E., you have
>>>>> :::: > to choose the correct orientation of the
>>> part from which to
>>>>> :::: start. I have
>>>>> :::: > some RP parts here and the top final
>>> surface that was
>>>>> :::: generated is as
>>>>> :::: > smooth as glass but the sides have that
>>> "grain" to it. I
>>>>> :::: don't think FDM
>>>>> :::: > parts have this grain to it but I'd have
>>> to check. I just
>>>>> :::: brought this all
>>>>> :::: > up as an option.
>>>>> :::: >
>>>>> :::: > hmmmmmm, thinking here: What if you
>>> made a mold of the part
>>>>> :::: via a CNC
>>>>> :::: > machine and then melted lead or some
>>> type of plastic into
>>>>> :::: the mold to make
>>>>> :::: > your own parts???
>>>>> :::: >
>>>>> :::: > Jim
>>>>> :::: >
>>>>> :::: >
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> :::: > Simpits-tech mailing list
>>>>> :::: > Simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>>> :::: >
>>> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech
>>>>> :::: > To unsubscribe, please see the
>>> instructions at the bottom of
>>>>> :::: the above page.
>>>>> :::: > Thanks!
>>>>> ::::
>>>>> ::::
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> :::: Simpits-tech mailing list
>>>>> :::: Simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>>> ::::
>>> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech
>>>>> :::: To unsubscribe, please see the
>>> instructions
>> === message truncated ===
>>
>>
>> =====
>> Joab Ryan
>> Mechanical CAD Designer,
>> Network Administrator &
>> Military Aircraft Sim Builder
>> North Texas USA
>> http://www.360-designs.net
>>
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