[simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
Ido Dekkers
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Thu, 10 Oct 2002 09:32:45 +0300
Hopefully with some wishful thinking I'll have some to send you next week,
Holding my fingers crossed.
Ido
Marv De Beque
<mdebeque@woh.r
r.com> To
Sent by: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
simpits-tech-ad cc
min@simpits.org
bcc
10/08/2002 Subject
11:28 PM Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
Please respond
to simpits-tech
Actually, anyone interested in investing in knobs can simply send me real
ones in good condition. I only need them for a week and I'll make molds of
what ever I get. Then you can have the real one back in the same condition
it was sent to me.
Marv
--
> From: joab ryan <joab_ryan@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:27:45 -0700 (PDT)
> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>
> Ill tell you guys, where i work now we have a CNC and
> a can throw some work on it. But i dont have a program
> to convert cad drawings! they manually punch in simple
> stuff (what a waste) if someone could program them I
> can run them at cost of materials, so make a mold to
> hold all of the knobs.
> Let me know.
>
> this includes anything else to...
>
> --- Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com> wrote:
>> Let's put it this way. A shop will charge more than
>> $50 an hour for mill
>> work.
>>
>> Even with CAD drawings and CNC machines there is no
>> way you can get a
>> finished mold in two hours time. I can assure you
>> that there is all kind of
>> set up involved, so I would expect more than 2
>> hours.
>>
>> My shop experience is lower than experts, and I do
>> not have a CNC mill.
>>
>> If I can buy a knob for $50 and spend another hour
>> making a mold using that
>> knob, I have probably saved myself money and time
>> and I have a more accurate
>> part in the end.
>>
>> Yes, clear resin is a candidate, but it requires
>> heated molds.
>> --
>>
>>
>>> From: Mike Williams <mikewilliams3@comcast.net>
>>> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>> Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 21:38:50 -0500
>>> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>> Subject: RE: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>
>>> Marv, what about the clear resin that comes in
>> those home kits, the ones
>>> where you can cast a snakes head
>>> or cockroach :)- into clear resin, what is the
>> name of that stuff and where
>>> can it be had? Knobs are a bit away for me yet
>> too, Although I had pretty
>>> good luck using polyesther resin (fiberglass
>> resin) and using one time
>>> modeling clay molds from original. (eperimenting
>> last winter). Has any of
>>> the home CNC guys cranked up their mills yet, can
>> molds be made from a CNC
>>> for casting?
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
>>> [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org]On Behalf
>> Of Marv De Beque
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 7:37 PM
>>> To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>
>>>
>>> Interesting about the lead-free pewter.
>>>
>>> I have tried some experiments with translucent
>> plastics for light plates and
>>> I was very disappointed at the performance (almost
>> nil).
>>>
>>> Water clear plastic is the only way to go. That
>> is what the knob
>>> manufactures use and I am sure that they put a lot
>> of science and
>>> engineering into the designs. So I will take
>> their lead since I don't want
>>> to reinvent the wheel (only borrow it to make a
>> mold). ;-)
>>>
>>> Marv
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>>> From: Steve Wilson <mafsix@attbi.com>
>>>> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:24:32 -0400
>>>> To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>>
>>>> Lead is toxic. Lead-free pewter is not.
>> Different pewter alloys have
>>>> different strengths, and the stronger variants
>> can be used for harness
>>> buckles
>>>> and the like. Strong stuff, especially for knobs
>> and small mechanical
>>> parts.
>>>>
>>>> What you want to cast with, Marv, is a
>> translucent white epoxy resin that
>>> can
>>>> be painted, then lit from underneath.
>>>>
>>>> RP would only be good for mold masters.
>> Depending on the quality and the
>>>> material used, perhaps they'd need a bit of a
>> polish, but then they would
>>> need
>>>> to be cast in resin.
>>>> --
>>>> Steve Wilson, mafsix@attbi.com on 10/02/2002
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, 02 Oct 2002 18:02:52 -0400, Marv De Beque
>> wrote:
>>>> ::::
>>>> :::: Lead and pewter are things to avoid. Not
>> only are they too
>>>> :::: soft, they are
>>>> :::: very toxic materials.
>>>> ::::
>>>> :::: For the home shop, two-part epoxies are
>> probably the way to go.
>>>> ::::
>>>> :::: There are a lot of good quality silicon
>> molding rubbers that
>>>> :::: can be used to
>>>> :::: make a mold from. That would be my bet.
>>>> ::::
>>>> :::: As for making RP parts, they are simply
>> not strong enough for
>>>> :::: real world
>>>> :::: use.
>>>> ::::
>>>> :::: Where they shine is for making example
>> parts to check theory
>>>> :::: or, if high
>>>> :::: enough quality, as masters for making
>> rubber molds. I think
>>>> :::: the latter
>>>> :::: holds some promise. That is where my
>> money is at.
>>>> :::: --
>>>> ::::
>>>> ::::
>>>> :::: > From: "Jim K." <JimK@sisna.com>
>>>> :::: > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
>>>> :::: > Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 13:28:09 -0600
>>>> :::: > To: Simpits <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
>>>> :::: > Subject: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>>>> :::: >
>>>> :::: > Marv,
>>>> :::: > The quality of RP prototypes seems to
>> rely on the machine
>>>> :::: being used and
>>>> :::: > what type of RP is being used. There
>> are several different
>>>> :::: RP methods and
>>>> :::: > they do produce different results. I
>> think you can change
>>>> :::: the quality
>>>> :::: > outcome of a part via your drawing
>> and/or the settings in
>>>> :::: the RP machine
>>>> :::: > itself and the way you make the part is
>> critical as well.
>>>> :::: I.E., you have
>>>> :::: > to choose the correct orientation of the
>> part from which to
>>>> :::: start. I have
>>>> :::: > some RP parts here and the top final
>> surface that was
>>>> :::: generated is as
>>>> :::: > smooth as glass but the sides have that
>> "grain" to it. I
>>>> :::: don't think FDM
>>>> :::: > parts have this grain to it but I'd have
>> to check. I just
>>>> :::: brought this all
>>>> :::: > up as an option.
>>>> :::: >
>>>> :::: > hmmmmmm, thinking here: What if you
>> made a mold of the part
>>>> :::: via a CNC
>>>> :::: > machine and then melted lead or some
>> type of plastic into
>>>> :::: the mold to make
>>>> :::: > your own parts???
>>>> :::: >
>>>> :::: > Jim
>>>> :::: >
>>>> :::: >
>> _______________________________________________
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>>>> :::: >
>> http://www.simpits.org/mailman/listinfo/simpits-tech
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>>>> :::: > Thanks!
>>>> ::::
>>>> ::::
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> === message truncated ===
>
>
> =====
> Joab Ryan
> Mechanical CAD Designer,
> Network Administrator &
> Military Aircraft Sim Builder
> North Texas USA
> http://www.360-designs.net
>
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