[simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP

joab ryan simpits-tech@simpits.org
Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:27:45 -0700 (PDT)


Ill tell you guys, where i work now we have a CNC and
a can throw some work on it. But i dont have a program
to convert cad drawings! they manually punch in simple
stuff (what a waste) if someone could program them I
can run them at cost of materials, so make a mold to
hold all of the knobs.
Let me know.

this includes anything else to...

--- Marv De Beque <mdebeque@woh.rr.com> wrote:
> Let's put it this way.  A shop will charge more than
> $50 an hour for mill
> work.  
> 
> Even with CAD drawings and CNC machines there is no
> way you can get a
> finished mold in two hours time.  I can assure you
> that there is all kind of
> set up involved, so I would expect more than 2
> hours.
> 
> My shop experience is lower than experts, and I do
> not have a CNC mill.
> 
> If I can buy a knob for $50 and spend another hour
> making a mold using that
> knob, I have probably saved myself money and time
> and I have a more accurate
> part in the end.
> 
> Yes, clear resin is a candidate, but it requires
> heated molds.
> -- 
> 
> 
> > From: Mike Williams <mikewilliams3@comcast.net>
> > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> > Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 21:38:50 -0500
> > To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> > Subject: RE: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> > 
> > Marv, what about the clear resin that comes in
> those home kits, the ones
> > where you can cast a snakes head
> > or cockroach :)- into clear resin, what is the
> name of that stuff and where
> > can it be had? Knobs are a bit away for me yet
> too, Although I had pretty
> > good luck using polyesther resin (fiberglass
> resin) and using one time
> > modeling clay molds from original. (eperimenting
> last winter). Has any of
> > the home CNC guys cranked up their mills yet, can
> molds be made from a CNC
> > for casting?
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org
> > [mailto:simpits-tech-admin@simpits.org]On Behalf
> Of Marv De Beque
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 7:37 PM
> > To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> > Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> > 
> > 
> > Interesting about the lead-free pewter.
> > 
> > I have tried some experiments with translucent
> plastics for light plates and
> > I was very disappointed at the performance (almost
> nil).
> > 
> > Water clear plastic is the only way to go.  That
> is what the knob
> > manufactures use and I am sure that they put a lot
> of science and
> > engineering into the designs.  So I will take
> their lead since I don't want
> > to reinvent the wheel (only borrow it to make a
> mold).  ;-)
> > 
> > Marv
> > --
> > 
> > 
> >> From: Steve Wilson <mafsix@attbi.com>
> >> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> >> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:24:32 -0400
> >> To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> >> 
> >> Lead is toxic.  Lead-free pewter is not. 
> Different pewter alloys have
> >> different strengths, and the stronger variants
> can be used for harness
> > buckles
> >> and the like.  Strong stuff, especially for knobs
> and small mechanical
> > parts.
> >> 
> >> What you want to cast with, Marv, is a
> translucent white epoxy resin that
> > can
> >> be painted, then lit from underneath.
> >> 
> >> RP would only be good for mold masters. 
> Depending on the quality and the
> >> material used, perhaps they'd need a bit of a
> polish, but then they would
> > need
> >> to be cast in resin.
> >> --
> >> Steve Wilson, mafsix@attbi.com on 10/02/2002
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On Wed, 02 Oct 2002 18:02:52 -0400, Marv De Beque
> wrote:
> >> ::::
> >> ::::   Lead and pewter are things to avoid.  Not
> only are they too
> >> ::::   soft, they are
> >> ::::   very toxic materials.
> >> ::::
> >> ::::   For the home shop, two-part epoxies are
> probably the way to go.
> >> ::::
> >> ::::   There are a lot of good quality silicon
> molding rubbers that
> >> ::::   can be used to
> >> ::::   make a mold from.  That would be my bet.
> >> ::::
> >> ::::   As for making RP parts, they are simply
> not strong enough for
> >> ::::   real world
> >> ::::   use.
> >> ::::
> >> ::::   Where they shine is for making example
> parts to check theory
> >> ::::   or, if high
> >> ::::   enough quality, as masters for making
> rubber molds.  I think
> >> ::::   the latter
> >> ::::   holds some promise.  That is where my
> money is at.
> >> ::::   --
> >> ::::
> >> ::::
> >> ::::   > From: "Jim K." <JimK@sisna.com>
> >> ::::   > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> >> ::::   > Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 13:28:09 -0600
> >> ::::   > To: Simpits <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> >> ::::   > Subject: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> >> ::::   >
> >> ::::   > Marv,
> >> ::::   > The quality of RP prototypes seems to
> rely on the machine
> >> ::::   being used and
> >> ::::   > what type of RP is being used.  There
> are several different
> >> ::::   RP methods and
> >> ::::   > they do produce different results.  I
> think you can change
> >> ::::   the quality
> >> ::::   > outcome of a part via your drawing
> and/or the settings in
> >> ::::   the RP machine
> >> ::::   > itself and the way you make the part is
> critical as well.
> >> ::::   I.E., you have
> >> ::::   > to choose the correct orientation of the
> part from which to
> >> ::::   start.  I have
> >> ::::   > some RP parts here and the top final
> surface that was
> >> ::::   generated is as
> >> ::::   > smooth as glass but the sides have that
> "grain" to it.  I
> >> ::::   don't think FDM
> >> ::::   > parts have this grain to it but I'd have
> to check.  I just
> >> ::::   brought this all
> >> ::::   > up as an option.
> >> ::::   >
> >> ::::   > hmmmmmm, thinking here:  What if you
> made a mold of the part
> >> ::::   via a CNC
> >> ::::   > machine and then melted lead or some
> type of plastic into
> >> ::::   the mold to make
> >> ::::   > your own parts???
> >> ::::   >
> >> ::::   > Jim
> >> ::::   >
> >> ::::   >
> _______________________________________________
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> >> ::::   > Simpits-tech@simpits.org
> >> ::::   >
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> >> ::::   the above page.
> >> ::::   > Thanks!
> >> ::::
> >> ::::  
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=== message truncated ===


=====
Joab Ryan
Mechanical CAD Designer,
Network Administrator &
Military Aircraft Sim Builder
North Texas USA
http://www.360-designs.net

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