[simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP

[Marv De Beque]

Interesting about the lead-free pewter.

I have tried some experiments with translucent plastics for light plates and
I was very disappointed at the performance (almost nil).

Water clear plastic is the only way to go.  That is what the knob
manufactures use and I am sure that they put a lot of science and
engineering into the designs.  So I will take their lead since I don't want
to reinvent the wheel (only borrow it to make a mold).  ;-)

Marv
-- 


> From: Steve Wilson <mafsix@attbi.com>
> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:24:32 -0400
> To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> 
> Lead is toxic.  Lead-free pewter is not.  Different pewter alloys have
> different strengths, and the stronger variants can be used for harness buckles
> and the like.  Strong stuff, especially for knobs and small mechanical parts.
> 
> What you want to cast with, Marv, is a translucent white epoxy resin that can
> be painted, then lit from underneath.
> 
> RP would only be good for mold masters.  Depending on the quality and the
> material used, perhaps they'd need a bit of a polish, but then they would need
> to be cast in resin.
> -- 
> Steve Wilson, mafsix@attbi.com on 10/02/2002
> 
> 
> On Wed, 02 Oct 2002 18:02:52 -0400, Marv De Beque wrote:
> ::::
> ::::   Lead and pewter are things to avoid.  Not only are they too
> ::::   soft, they are
> ::::   very toxic materials.
> ::::
> ::::   For the home shop, two-part epoxies are probably the way to go.
> ::::
> ::::   There are a lot of good quality silicon molding rubbers that
> ::::   can be used to
> ::::   make a mold from.  That would be my bet.
> ::::
> ::::   As for making RP parts, they are simply not strong enough for
> ::::   real world
> ::::   use.
> ::::
> ::::   Where they shine is for making example parts to check theory
> ::::   or, if high
> ::::   enough quality, as masters for making rubber molds.  I think
> ::::   the latter
> ::::   holds some promise.  That is where my money is at.
> ::::   --
> ::::
> ::::
> ::::   > From: "Jim K." <JimK@sisna.com>
> ::::   > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> ::::   > Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 13:28:09 -0600
> ::::   > To: Simpits <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> ::::   > Subject: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> ::::   >
> ::::   > Marv,
> ::::   > The quality of RP prototypes seems to rely on the machine
> ::::   being used and
> ::::   > what type of RP is being used.  There are several different
> ::::   RP methods and
> ::::   > they do produce different results.  I think you can change
> ::::   the quality
> ::::   > outcome of a part via your drawing and/or the settings in
> ::::   the RP machine
> ::::   > itself and the way you make the part is critical as well.
> ::::   I.E., you have
> ::::   > to choose the correct orientation of the part from which to
> ::::   start.  I have
> ::::   > some RP parts here and the top final surface that was
> ::::   generated is as
> ::::   > smooth as glass but the sides have that "grain" to it.  I
> ::::   don't think FDM
> ::::   > parts have this grain to it but I'd have to check.  I just
> ::::   brought this all
> ::::   > up as an option.
> ::::   >
> ::::   > hmmmmmm, thinking here:  What if you made a mold of the part
> ::::   via a CNC
> ::::   > machine and then melted lead or some type of plastic into
> ::::   the mold to make
> ::::   > your own parts???
> ::::   >
> ::::   > Jim
> ::::   >
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