[simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
Marv De Beque
simpits-tech@simpits.org
Thu, 03 Oct 2002 06:06:06 -0400
I am not familiar with Peter's panels, but you might be able to either
counter bore into the top of the panel enough to scratch away the black, or
counter sink the holes.
--
> From: Steve Wilson <mafsix@attbi.com>
> Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 21:30:54 -0400
> To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
>
> Well, when it comes to the knobs - you remain our resident expert! :-)
>
> The only thing I've realized, though, in the meantime, is that I'm scrod when
> it comes to illuminating my knobs. There needs to be a ring around each knob
> mounting hole to let the knob backlighting work, and that is not featured in
> the Nova panels I'm using. I'll have to speak to Peter Cos about that for the
> next rev of his F-16 panels. This is probably not really that big of a loss,
> but it's definitely an FYI for anyone considering backlighting their knobs.
> Part of the prep for hacking into my Aimsworth consoles has been to lay out
> all the panels this week for measurements. Damn, Peter did a good job on
> those.
>
> Getting your knob making eagerness into a higher gear, Marv. ;-))))
>
> Steve
> --
> Steve Wilson, mafsix@attbi.com on 10/02/2002
>
>
> On Wed, 02 Oct 2002 20:36:45 -0400, Marv De Beque wrote:
> ::::
> :::: Interesting about the lead-free pewter.
> ::::
> :::: I have tried some experiments with translucent plastics for
> :::: light plates and
> :::: I was very disappointed at the performance (almost nil).
> ::::
> :::: Water clear plastic is the only way to go. That is what the
> :::: knob
> :::: manufactures use and I am sure that they put a lot of science
> :::: and
> :::: engineering into the designs. So I will take their lead since
> :::: I don't want
> :::: to reinvent the wheel (only borrow it to make a mold). ;-)
> ::::
> :::: Marv
> :::: --
> ::::
> ::::
> :::: > From: Steve Wilson <mafsix@attbi.com>
> :::: > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> :::: > Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:24:32 -0400
> :::: > To: <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> :::: > Subject: Re: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> :::: >
> :::: > Lead is toxic. Lead-free pewter is not. Different pewter
> :::: alloys have
> :::: > different strengths, and the stronger variants can be used
> :::: for harness buckles
> :::: > and the like. Strong stuff, especially for knobs and small
> :::: mechanical parts.
> :::: >
> :::: > What you want to cast with, Marv, is a translucent white
> :::: epoxy resin that can
> :::: > be painted, then lit from underneath.
> :::: >
> :::: > RP would only be good for mold masters. Depending on the
> :::: quality and the
> :::: > material used, perhaps they'd need a bit of a polish, but
> :::: then they would need
> :::: > to be cast in resin.
> :::: > --
> :::: > Steve Wilson, mafsix@attbi.com on 10/02/2002
> :::: >
> :::: >
> :::: > On Wed, 02 Oct 2002 18:02:52 -0400, Marv De Beque wrote:
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > :::: Lead and pewter are things to avoid. Not only are
> :::: they too
> :::: > :::: soft, they are
> :::: > :::: very toxic materials.
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > :::: For the home shop, two-part epoxies are probably the
> :::: way to go.
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > :::: There are a lot of good quality silicon molding
> :::: rubbers that
> :::: > :::: can be used to
> :::: > :::: make a mold from. That would be my bet.
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > :::: As for making RP parts, they are simply not strong
> :::: enough for
> :::: > :::: real world
> :::: > :::: use.
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > :::: Where they shine is for making example parts to check
> :::: theory
> :::: > :::: or, if high
> :::: > :::: enough quality, as masters for making rubber molds.
> :::: I think
> :::: > :::: the latter
> :::: > :::: holds some promise. That is where my money is at.
> :::: > :::: --
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > ::::
> :::: > :::: > From: "Jim K." <JimK@sisna.com>
> :::: > :::: > Reply-To: simpits-tech@simpits.org
> :::: > :::: > Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 13:28:09 -0600
> :::: > :::: > To: Simpits <simpits-tech@simpits.org>
> :::: > :::: > Subject: [simpits-tech] to MARV re: RP
> :::: > :::: >
> :::: > :::: > Marv,
> :::: > :::: > The quality of RP prototypes seems to rely on the
> :::: machine
> :::: > :::: being used and
> :::: > :::: > what type of RP is being used. There are several
> :::: different
> :::: > :::: RP methods and
> :::: > :::: > they do produce different results. I think you can
> :::: change
> :::: > :::: the quality
> :::: > :::: > outcome of a part via your drawing and/or the
> :::: settings in
> :::: > :::: the RP machine
> :::: > :::: > itself and the way you make the part is critical as
> :::: well.
> :::: > :::: I.E., you have
> :::: > :::: > to choose the correct orientation of the part from
> :::: which to
> :::: > :::: start. I have
> :::: > :::: > some RP parts here and the top final surface that
> :::: was
> :::: > :::: generated is as
> :::: > :::: > smooth as glass but the sides have that "grain" to
> :::: it. I
> :::: > :::: don't think FDM
> :::: > :::: > parts have this grain to it but I'd have to check.
> :::: I just
> :::: > :::: brought this all
> :::: > :::: > up as an option.
> :::: > :::: >
> :::: > :::: > hmmmmmm, thinking here: What if you made a mold of
> :::: the part
> :::: > :::: via a CNC
> :::: > :::: > machine and then melted lead or some type of
> :::: plastic into
> :::: > :::: the mold to make
> :::: > :::: > your own parts???
> :::: > :::: >
> :::: > :::: > Jim
> :::: > :::: >
> :::: > :::: > _______________________________________________
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