dont know if that is the case... the pot normally has three (3) leads on it.<div>1. lets call it the top should go to vcc (power)</div><div>2. lets call it the bottom should go to ground.</div><div>3. the middle or the slider </div>
<div>so first test the pot out of circuit.</div><div>measure ohms between 1 & 2 should be about 10k+/- % (tolerance) (if its a 10k pot) to find the tolerance check with the manufacture normal tolerances are 1, 5, 10%</div>
<div>also you need to know if the pot has a 'taper' ie Log, etc.</div><div>now put your meter between 1 &3 and check range and ends</div><div>repeat between 2 & 3.</div><div>at the ends you should get very little or no resistance. Ie check the spec.</div>
<div>if the tests differ you might have a badly trimmed pot. (it happens)</div><div>some of the pots are real crappy!! remember they where for a game CHEAP!!</div><div>I changed out my pots for older Alan Bradley type J they are the best! For those of you who dont know look here: <a href="http://www.talonix.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=12674">http://www.talonix.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=12674</a></div>
<div><br></div><div>Upwards and Onward</div><div>enjoy</div><div>Cris H.</div><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 25, 2012 at 12:37 AM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:dabigboy@cox.net" target="_blank">dabigboy@cox.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">My first guess would be a bad Plasma (sad!!!!), but I will say I've had some weird issues with Windows and joystick device calibration back before I switched to Linux.<br>
<br>
One thing I can think of: with a traditional 100k pot, for instance, don't you usually get *some* voltage at the low end, since it's just a big resistor and not actually opening or grounding the circuit? Theoretically it still shouldn't act the way it's acting for you, but this *is* Windows we're talking about, maybe the unusually low voltage reading from the Hall is confusing it. :P<br>
<br>
I would plug it into another PC and see what you get, or boot your current PC into a Linux boot CD and see if it will calibrate in Linux. Linux seems to be a little more tolerant of non-conventional joystick-style controls than Windows. Oh, and try different jumper settings on the Plasma...you can change the filtering level, as well as the resolution if I remember correctly (my Plasma V2 manual is not on this PC).<br>
<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
Matt<br>
</font></span><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><br>
---- geneb <<a href="mailto:geneb@deltasoft.com">geneb@deltasoft.com</a>> wrote:<br>
> I'm spending some time tying up the lose ends on the 109F/X controls -<br>
> I haven't done much with it since I replaced the pots with my diy hall<br>
> effect sensors.<br>
><br>
> The silly things won't calibrate under Windows XP and my Plasma MM2.<br>
><br>
> I've tested the devices themselves and they range from 0..5V as you go<br>
> from one extreme to the other - it's about 180 degrees of usable range -<br>
> I'm only using about the middle 90 or so. (45 each way)<br>
><br>
> When it calibration mode on XP, I view the raw data to watch for spikes.<br>
> I don't have a spiking issue, but it appears I've got weird WRAP issue.<br>
><br>
> With the hall effect sensor at a know position (centered @ 2.5V), the<br>
> joystick calibration window reads about 960 or so. I would expect it to<br>
> read about 500-512. When I move the control one direction, it quickly<br>
> hits 1023 and wraps back to zero. It will do this at least twice if not<br>
> three times before I hit the end of the travel. It does the same thing<br>
> going the other way.<br>
><br>
> Any suggestions or has my Plasma MM2 packed it in?<br>
><br>
> Thanks folks!<br>
><br>
> g.<br>
><br>
><br>
> --<br>
> Proud owner of F-15C 80-0007<br>
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> Some people collect things for a hobby. Geeks collect hobbies.<br>
><br>
> ScarletDME - The red hot Data Management Environment<br>
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